Saddleback Plumbing Heating & Air Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Corona Del Mar’

Corona Del Mar Heat Pump FAQ: Why is Steam Rising from the Outdoor Unit of my Heat Pump?

Wednesday, March 28th, 2012

In the winter months, we often get calls from Corona Del Mar customers about steam rising from the outdoor unit of their heat pumps, which is often mistaken for smoke. Steam rising from your outdoor unit is a normal during the heat pump defrost cycle. The defrost cycle prevents ice from accumulating on the outdoor coils.

Under normal conditions, heat pumps in Corona Del Mar should run without needing a defrost cycle. However, if temperatures drop to near freezing, a sensor will set off the defrost cycle, during which the outdoor coils will heat up and melt any ice that has formed on the coils. During this cycle, you may see what can look like puffs of smoke, but it’s actually the steam caused by the coils melting the frost. The steam can appear to be denser if there’s excessive humidity or moisture in the air.

It is important to note that the defrost cycle should not last more than ten to fifteen minutes, and each cycle should only run every two hours or so. If you notice that the cycles last longer, run more often, or if you see ice on the outdoor coils of your heat pump after the cycle is finished, you may need a heat pump repairs. Another concern is cooler temperatures in your home, which could indicate that the heat strips are not working properly during the defrost cycle.

Once the cycle is finished, the fan motor should come on again, but if it doesn’t come on several hours after the cycle, you should call us to send one of our HVAC technicians to inspect your heat pump. There could be an issue with airflow, or a potential motor failure. When there’s a lack of adequate airflow, it can damage the compressor and other components. Call us any time you notice anything other than the normal steam rising from your heat pump during the winter.

There are some ways to prevent excess wear and tear on your heat pump during the winter. For instance, strong winds can greatly affect the performance of your heat pump and may cause abnormal defrost cycles. Make sure the outdoor components are protected from heavy wind by placing some type of natural or manufactured barrier around your heat pump, but be sure not to block the airflow. If you are buying a new heat pump, look for a model that has demand-defrost control. This feature helps to save energy by minimizing the defrost cycles.

Feel free to call Saddleback Plumbing if you have questions about your heat pump or Corona Del Mar heating.

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How to Increase Your Water Pressure in Huntington Beach

Thursday, March 15th, 2012

As a Huntington Beach resident it’s no fun when you are in the middle of taking a shower and your bathroom plumbing slows to a trickle. The most logical thing to blame the loss of water pressure is a toilet being flushed or a washing machine being filled. It is not uncommon for losses in water pressure to be associated with simultaneous water usage in other parts of the home.

But if low water pressure seems to be a constant problem when only one source is being used and there are no other appliances using water at the same time, you may have a bigger problem on your hands.

The first thing to do is to check the source of the water supply to your outdoor faucets. Turn the hose bibs to the fully open position and run the water. Is the pressure okay? If so, you probably have a problem indoors. While you are outside, check for any leaks in the hose bibs or faucets. A leak can cause a loss of water pressure in other plumbing circuits.

Now check the hose bibs on the lines leading to interior fittings, like faucets or showerheads, etc. Is the hose bib turned to the fully open position? Someone may have been playing with the bib and turned it down or off. If that checks out okay, take a look at all of the fittings in your plumbing fixtures. Are there any leaks? Is there standing water anywhere, indicating a leak?

If so, tighten up the affected fittings. If you need to remove any fittings to inspect or replace (i.e. a worn out washer or bushing), make sure you turn off the water line to the fitting first.

If there are filter screens in your faucets check them for an accumulation of debris and clean if necessary. A clogged screen can greatly reduce water pressure.

Many new homes now come with a pressure regulator, which governs the water pressure going into the home. The regulator is located above ground, usually where the pipes enter the home. The pressures are usually preset by the regulator manufacturer but may not always be compatible to the local environment. If you think that may be the problem, contact Saddleback Plumbing for a professional opinion.

A disruption in the piping that feeds water into the home can also affect water pressure, such as tree roots in the pipes or a break in the line. These problems can only be diagnosed and corrected by qualified plumbing professionals. Please do not attempt to find and fix these problems as the result may be costly or even dangerous to your health.

Low water pressure can be a drag but it may also only require a quick fix.

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DIY Plumbing Tip 1: How to Install a Toilet

Monday, February 13th, 2012

A toilet is a relatively basic piece of bathroom plumbing equipment for a Corona Del Mar resident to install, but that does not mean that installing it is easy. This is certainly a plumbing maintenance that many people can do on their own, but you should be prepared to devoting the majority of your day to the project. While the installation itself is not terribly complicated, it is quite important that you get it right, so make sure you have all of the necessary materials, equipment and tools before you begin.

The first thing to remember is that you need to install your toilet in an appropriate place relative to the rest of your bathroom plumbing. Especially if you are installing your toilet along a branch drain, make sure that the sink, shower and any other plumbing fixtures are upstream of the spot where you will be installing the toilet.

You will also need to make sure that you install the toilet an appropriate distance from the wall. You need to be able to get around the toilet, and you also want to leave space so that work can be performed on the unit later. Putting your toilet too close to the wall can cause all kinds of complications in the way the unit functions and there is also a possibility of condensation build-up. For all of these reasons, it is important to make sure you are allowing an adequate amount of space on all sides.

The procedure you will have to follow when installing a toilet will be slightly different depending on whether you are installing it in a new spot or simply replacing an existing unit. When replacing an old toilet, you need to remove everything involved in the previous installation. That means taking the old bolts out of the floor and scraping away any residue to ensure that you have a clean and even surface to begin your installation on.

You should also make sure that you are aware of all applicable local codes before you begin your work. Even if you technically install your toilet correctly, you could run into trouble later on if your installation is not actually up to code. It is also important to remember to level all of your fixtures before you complete the installation process and to make sure you use a dielectric or brass fitting when attaching galvanized steel and copper to each other.  If you have any questions about this process please call Saddleback Plumbers

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A Question from Robinson Ranch: When Should You Replace Instead of Repair Your Heating?

Wednesday, December 21st, 2011

We all dread an expensive repair in Robinson Ranch, whether it is a car that needs a new transmission, a leaky roof that needs new shingles, or electrical wiring that has been chewed up by a wild animal. We often try and put bandages on things that we know should be replaced but we just can’t afford to replace them.

The same can be said about your home’s heating system. When your heat goes out or your home just doesn’t seem to be heating up to the setting on your thermostat, your first inclination is to check and see if it is running. Some people will put their hand over a heating vent to check for hot air while others may go into the basement or mechanical room to listen to hear if the furnace is running. Maybe there is a blockage in the ventilation system or a blown circuit breaker, two relatively easy fixes.

If the furnace isn’t working after checking the obvious symptoms, your next move is to call for service. Any Robinson Ranch heating professional would be able to diagnose your problem and offer suggested repairs. Something relatively minor like a bad circuit board or blown fan motor are not real expensive repairs and are the best option versus replacing the furnace. And you may keep experiencing the same problem and getting the same repair work done – anything to avoid an expensive replacement.

But at some point the vicious cycle will come to an end. Your repair bills will begin to inch their way past the cost of replacing the furnace. You can only bandage a problem so long before it becomes “unfixable.” You may not want to pay an expensive replacement bill but consider the alternatives.

First is the obvious – it costs too much to keep repairing the furnace. Secondly, you never know when the furnace may break down and its failure to operate could have dangerous effects on the people in your home, especially if someone is sick. Third, your furnace may not be able to keep up with the heating demand due to lifestyle changes, i.e. an addition put on the house, carpeting removed and wood floors exposed, a new window, door, or skylight added, etc. Your old furnace may not have been designed to keep up with these changes and the repairs are only delaying the inevitable.

Ask yourself if everyone in your Robinson Ranch home is comfortable during cold weather. If most answer no, it may be time to consider replacing that old furnace with a new, energy efficient model that uses today’s technology – and leaves a smaller carbon footprint – to keep up with the demand for heat, in any sized building or home. Your decision to replace your old heating system could be as simple as the need to use modern technology to solve your indoor comfort problems.

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Why is My Furnace Turning On and Off? A Question from Laguna Beach

Friday, December 2nd, 2011

One of the most annoying things your furnace can do is to constantly keep turning on and off. This on-off cycling keeps your Laguna Beach home from heating up properly. This action – called short cycling – also requires more electricity and drives up utility bills.

Short cycling is caused by an overheated furnace, which triggers safety mechanisms and shuts down the furnace. After a brief interval and cooling down, the furnace starts up again the cycle keeps repeating itself. Not only is it an annoyance, it can also signal more serious problems. A leaking heat exchanger can cause a furnace to overheat – and produce deadly carbon monoxide gas.

If a furnace is working too hard and overheating, it is usually because of airflow in and out. Your home’s ventilation system needs to be clear of dirt, dust, and debris. The more blockage in your ductwork and vents, the more friction is created, slowing down airflow and ultimately ending with an overworked furnace that continues to cycle on and off. And a blocked exhaust vent, such as a chimney or dedicated exhaust vent, can also cause a furnace to work harder. Check for things like leaves or bird’s nests.

The blockage may also be coming from a clogged furnace filter. You should clean or replace your furnace filter after a visual inspection reveals any type of build-up of dust or dirt. Do this at least every three-six months.

If you have a two-speed fan on your furnace, it is recommended that you run the fan in low speed during the cold months and high speed in the warm months. The reason? Warm air is lighter and takes less force to move.

There are other measures to take to prevent short cycling but these usually require a professional heating and cooling service technician to correct the problem. If in doubt, call your local qualified heating and cooling contractor and schedule a furnace inspection. Don’t make your furnace work any harder than it was designed for – and keep your home’s occupants comfortable and safe.

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Will My Air Cleaners Reduce Health Risks? A Question from Mission Viejo

Friday, November 18th, 2011

There is a lot of talk these days about how important it is to have a good air cleaner in your Mission Viejo home. If you don’t have one, you’re putting yourself at risk, or so says common knowledge. But, do air cleaners really reduce health risks, and if so, by how much?

What Air Cleaners Do

Before we can say whether an air cleaner has any positive health effects, we must first look at what they do. Air cleaners are designed to remove certain particles from the air inside your home. Different air cleaners are designed for different levels of removal.

Ratings like the MERV of an air cleaner measure how small of particles the device can remove. Additionally, the type of cleaner will determine what it is best at removing. Mechanical filters are the most efficient at removing dust, pollen, and dander while electronic filters are best for smoke, bacteria and mold spores.

So, What Impact Does this Have on Health?

The big question then is what kind of health benefits you will gain from a high end air cleaning system. If your home isn’t prone to a large number of contaminants and you have good ventilation, the difference may not be that big, but for those with a well-sealed home, pets, humidity problems or any number of other indoor air contaminant sources, an air cleaner has a tremendous impact on your health.

The problem is that when the house gets sealed up so tightly, we put our bodies at risk of contamination from gasses and pollutants that would otherwise dissipate into the air. Those with asthma are put at an increased risk as they breathe in a variety of different triggers like dust, mold and dander.

An air cleaner removes these threats and while they don’t have a proactive effect on your health – you won’t suddenly lose weight or never again get the flu – they can remove many of the negative effects that poor air quality has on your body.

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Why Select a Two Stage AC vs. Single Stage Air Conditioner

Friday, August 19th, 2011

When you are in the market for a new air conditioner in Dove Canyon, one of the decisions you will have to make is whether you want a two stage system or one that only functions in a single stage. Of course, before you can make a decision about this, you need to know what all of this means.

A single stage air conditioning system is probably what you are most familiar with. They have been around for longer and can be found in a wide variety of locations. Single stage air conditioners come on at full capacity when the temperature in your home rises above the preset level on the thermostat. Once they have effectively cooled the house, these types of air conditioners shut off until the temperature works its way back up again.

Two stage air conditioners, on the other hand, can function at either 67% or 100% of capacity depending on exactly how warm it is in your home. What that really means is that if the temperature in your home is only a little above the thermostat’s preset limit, the air conditioning system will come on at 67% and gradually cool the house to keep it right in a comfortable range.

However, if you have not been home for a while and your home has gotten very warm inside, your air conditioner will come on at full power to get the temperature down quickly. What this really means is that your air conditioner will be running more than a single stage air conditioner because it will sometimes not be using all of its power to cool.

The end result of using a two stage air conditioner is that you will receive a relatively continuous flow of cool air throughout your home. A two stage air conditioner will send in a steady but smaller stream of cooled air as opposed to the large blast of cold air you would get from a single stage system.

This results in a more consistent and comfortable environment overall, and it also makes it possible for the air conditioning system to dehumidify your house more effectively. When the air is cooled too quickly, the dehumidification system does not always have time to do its job. But with the longer cooling cycles of the two stage system, there is plenty of time to make sure the right amount of humidity is removed from the air.

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How to Plunge a Clogged Drain

Friday, July 22nd, 2011

It is almost inevitable that you will have to deal with a plugged drain somewhere in your home at some point. This drain may be in the bathtub, a sink or a toilet. But wherever it is, a plunger is usually your best bet for getting it out. If you are going to be successful, though, you need to know how to set yourself up and use the plunger properly.

To begin with, remove the strainer or pop-up plug from the opening of the drain. You want the material that is clogging the drain to be able to come back up through that hole when you apply the plunger suction. Next, make sure the sink or tub has enough water in it to cover the head of the plunger completely. A toilet generally has enough water in it already. This water helps to create a better seal for the plunger and allows you to generate better suction, both of which are essential if you are going to dislodge that plug.

You should also make sure you block off any other outlet connected to the drain you are going to plunge. To do this, stuff an old rag or sponge into the overflow opening or into the second drain of a two compartment sink. That will make it possible for the entire force of your suctioning to reach the clog because it will not be compromised by air escaping through an alternate opening.

Now you are ready to plunge. Place the plunger over the opening of the clogged drain. While keeping constant contact with the sink or tub floor, move the plunger rapidly up and down between 10 and 20 times. After the last plunge, pull the plunger off of the sink or tub floor quickly. This should break the seal you have established and help to pull the clog back up the drain towards you.

It can take a few cycles like this before you are able to dislodge the clog completely. But each time you plunge, you are doing more to break up the clog. The pressure from the plunger can eventually get rid of many difficult clogs, so do not be discouraged if it takes a few tries.

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What is a Downflow vs. an Upflow Furnace?

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

When you go looking to buy a furnace, you may well be surprised by how many different elements go into making a good purchasing decision. There are simply so many different kinds of furnaces available now and they each are more appropriate for certain situations. That means that finding the one that’s right for you is less about finding the one best unit than it is about finding the one that is the best match for your particular circumstances.

This applies to the type of fuel the furnace uses, its energy efficiency, and whether it’s an upflow furnace or a downflow furnace. Energy efficiency and fuel types are probably things that you’re more or less familiar with. But what are we talking about when we classify a furnace as an upflow or downflow model?

Well, it’s pretty much what it sounds like. These terms refer to the direction the air flows as it is taken in and heated by the furnace. So in an upflow furnace, the cool air is taken in at the bottom, warmed, and then expelled at the top. A downflow furnace, on the other hand, takes in cool air at the top and expels heated air at the bottom.

While this is all very exciting, it may still not be obvious what impact this will have on your decision about what type of furnace to buy. The main thing you’ll have to think about when you’re deciding between an upflow and a downflow furnace is where the furnace will be placed in your house.

An upflow furnace is generally installed in the basement so that the heated air is directed towards the parts of the house you want cooled and so that the furnace can be appropriately vented outside of the house. On the other hand, a downflow furnace would be installed in your attic for the same reasons.

So where you want to have the furnace installed is probably the biggest thing to take into account as you’re comparing these two types of equipment. Of course, whether you pick an upflow or a downflow furnace, you’ll still have to select the appropriate AFUE, size and fuel source to best meet your needs. But making the choice between upflow and downflow can at least make it easier to narrow down your options.

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What Is AFUE and Why Should I Care?

Monday, March 14th, 2011

If you’ve been shopping for a furnace, chances are you’ve noticed that each furnace has its own annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rating. These generally range from 80% to the high 90% s and the higher the number, the more fuel efficient that particular furnace is.

But what does this number really mean and just how much should you care? Well, the AFUE rating should actually have a significant impact on your furnace purchasing decision, but that doesn’t mean that you’ll always choose the furnace with the highest efficiency rating either.

For one thing, you’ll have to recognize that not every type of furnace is capable of running at the highest efficiency levels. Oil furnaces, for instance, can’t compete with the super high efficiency gas furnaces on the market today. That’s not to say that an oil furnace might not be the best choice for you under certain circumstances, but it does mean that you should take a close look at your furnace usage before you make a decision.

If you do choose a gas furnace, you will of course have the option of getting one that can reach up to 97% or so efficiency. However, that may not always be the best choice either. If you live in a place where with very harsh, long winters and you’re going to be using your furnace heavily, then it’s definitely worth investing in a higher AFUE furnace that can save you considerable amounts on your monthly heating bills.

But if you don’t use your furnace too often as your area has more mild winters it’s probably not worth it for you to invest in such a high efficiency product. That’s because the higher the AFUE of the furnace, the more expensive it is to purchase and install. Certainly you’ll save money every month because you’ll be getting more heat out of the fuel you’re paying for. But if you don’t use your furnace all that much, the savings really won’t be that substantial.

Don’t forget that a furnace with an 80% AFUE rating is still quite energy efficient. And once you get up that high, you have to use your furnace a lot for the difference between 80% and 90% to really become apparent. So if you don’t use your furnace heavily during the winter, it will take you many, many years to make up for the higher purchase price of the 90+% AFUE models.

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